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| Stain Removal Guide | ||||||
| Welcome to Drycleansmart.com's Stain Removal Guide. Here we tell you how to remove everyday stains, from candle wax, chocolate and lipstick, to gravy, salad dressing and red wine. In most cases, your professional drycleaner can easily remove these stains if you point them out. | ||||||
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Caution: 1. Stain removal is best accomplished when the stain is still fresh. Do not put anything away when it is stained or soiled. 2. You can often remove small
stains satisfactorily by home methods. We offer this guide to help you do
so, but it is generally better to let your drycleaner do the work when.
. . 3. Blot, don't rub. Rubbing can cause abrasion and damage the finish of your fabric. 4. Always read and follow the care instructions on the garment's label. Follow these General Rules for stain removal. 5. Never use nail polish remover on acetate, triacetate or modacrylic, as they will dissolve. |
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| Butter
- Butter is an oily substance which can best be removed in the drycleaning
process. However, for light stains, pretreat with a liquid laundry
detergent. Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Apply liquid
detergent to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air dry;
rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric. Before drying,
inspect, and repeat the treatment and washing if the stain remains.
Candle Wax - Candle wax consists of a wax and a dye, both are easily removed by a professional drycleaner. You may be able to remove the wax, but removing the dye in the wax without ruining your garment is the hard part. For a small area, try hardening with ice, then removing surface wax with a dull knife. For the remaining wax, place stain between clean paper towels and press with a warm iron. Replace paper towels frequently to absorb more wax and to prevent transferring the stain. Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Sponge remaining stain with "Shout" or "Spray and Wash"; blot with paper towels. Let dry, then launder. Note: If any color remains, relaunder with a bleach that is safe for the fabric. Carpet Stains - For stains on carpets, visit the following sites at www.steam-x.com Chocolate - A drycleaner can pre-treat your garment to easily remove this stain in the drycleaning process. As a home remedy, treat the stain with a prewash spray or pretreat with a product containing enzymes. Launder. If stain remains, relaunder with a bleach that is safe for the fabric. Coffee (with cream only) - Cream is an oily substance that is best removed by drycleaning. For a home remedy, flush stain immediately with cool water if possible; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Sponge stain with a drycleaning solvent. Air dry. Blot, don't rub, with detergent, then launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove. Pretreat or soak older stains with an enzyme product, then launder. Cooking Oil - Light stains can be pretreated with a spray stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a detergent booster. Place heavy stains face down on clean paper towels. Apply cleaning liquid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric. Before drying, inspect, and repeat the treatment and washing if the stain remains. Cream Sauce - Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If stain is dried or old, scrape or bush off any crusted matter and soak for up to several hours in cold water using a detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash. Cheese Sauce - Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If stain is dried or old, scrape or bush off any crusted matter and soak for up to several hours in cold water using a detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash. Dye Stains - Dye stains can be very difficult to remove. Soak the garment in a dilute solution of all-fabric powered bleach. Check the garment care label and check for color fastness first. If use of bleach is acceptable, soak and then rinse. If the stain remains and the garment is colorfast, soak the entire garment in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. Caution: Chlorine bleach may change the color of the garment or cause irreversible damage. Therefore, it is important to check for color fastness before using. If the stain does not come out within 15 minutes of bleaching, it cannot be removed by bleaching, and any further exposure to bleach will weaken the fabric. To check for color fastness to liquid chlorine bleach, mix 1 tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam or pocket edge inside the garment. Let it stand two minute, then blot dry. If there is no color change it is safe to use the product. Powered bleaches have directions for doing colorfastness tests. There are a number of dye removers, such as one from Rit, which are available in drug and grocery stores. However, color removers will take out fabric colors as well as the stain. Gravy - Treat the stain with a prewash spray or pretreat with a product containing enzymes. Launder. If stain remains, relaunder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Ink (solvent soluble) - Ink stains can be difficult to impossible to remove. This stain is best removed by a professional drycleaner. However, if you must try it yourself, you generally need to act fast to have a chance. Sponge the area around the stain with alcohol before applying it directly on the stain. Next, place the stain face down on clean, white, paper towels. Apply alcohol to the back of the stain. Replace towels frequently. Continue until no further ink is removed. Then rinse thoroughly. Rub with heavy duty liquid detergent and launder in hottest water safe for fabric, with bleach safe for fabric. Instead of alcohol, you could try using drycleaning solvent, such as Carbona, Energine, Goddard's. (Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the product label. These products are toxic.) Also, try a hidden inside seam first, to be sure the garment dye won't be removed. Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye stripper. You should be able to find this in areas where package dyes are sold. For stains on colored fabrics, check for dye stability in a hidden area before using. Ink (permanent) - Permanent inks are almost impossible to remove. This stain is best removed by a professional drycleaner. However, if you must try it yourself, you generally need to act fast to have a chance. The first step is to force water through the stain before it dries to remove excess ink. Allow to dry. Sponge the stain with dry cleaning solvent (read the directions carefully, it is toxic). Allow the fabric to dry.Work a liquid detergent into the stain with your finger. Rinse. Soak the stain in warm water to which 1 to 4 tablespoons of household ammonia have been added. Rinse and repeat if stain is lessening. Launder. Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye stripper. Follow package instructions. For stains on colored fabrics, check for dye fastness in a hidden are before using. Lipstick - Place face down on paper towels. Sponge area with drycleaning solvent, or use a prewash soil and stain remover. Replace towels frequently; rinse. Work light-duty liquid detergent into the stain until outline is removed; launder. Repeat treatment if needed using an all-fabric bleach, because it is less damaging to colors and fabric. Use liquid chlorine bleach for tough stains, if fabrics are colorfast to bleach. Make-up - Place face down on paper towels. Sponge area with drycleaning solvent, or use a prewash soil and stain remover. Replace towels frequently; rinse. Work light-duty liquid detergent into the stain until outline is removed; launder. Repeat treatment if needed using an all-fabric bleach, because it is less damaging to colors and fabric. Use liquid chlorine bleach for tough stains, if fabrics are colorfast to bleach. Mildew - Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth, darkness, and moisture to survive. Mildew actually eats cellulosic fiber and can also damage manufactured fibers, causing permanent damage and weakening of fibers and fabrics. To treat mildew first brush or shake off mildewed area. Pretreat stain with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then launder in hot water with heavy duty detergent and bleach safe for fabric. Let dry in the sun. Badly mildewed fabric may be damaged beyond repair. Old stains may respond to flushing with dry cleaning fluid, i.e., Carbona, Energine, Goddard's (but, carefully read and follow the instructions on the label, these are extremely toxic). Milk - Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If stain is dried or old, scrape or bush off and crusted matter and soak in cold water using a detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash. On dryclean only items, see your local drycleaner. Nail Polish - For stains from nail polish, apply nail polish remover to the back of the stain while laying the fabric on white absorbent towels. Replace towels frequently. Then rinse and launder. Never use nail polish remover on acetate, triacetate or modacrylic, as they will dissolve. Odors - Your professional drycleaner can remove most odors in the normal process of drycleaning. For washable garments, most odors should be removed by normal laundering. For stubborn odors sprinkle the clothes with baking soda, let stand, and then vacuum. Perspiration - Perspiration, if allowed to stay in fabric, will permanently stain and weaken the fabric. Aluminum chlorides in antiperspirants will also weaken the fabric under the arms. Controlled use of antiperspirants and frequent washings immediately after wear can minimize this type of damage. Wearing an undershirt or perspiration pads, can also keep stains off your shirts or blouses. These types of stains can be difficult to remove. And, the build-up of aluminum chloride or zinc salts may be impossible to remove. Old stains are more difficult to treat because they have been set, particularly from being heated in the dryer. For washable fabric, treat light stains with a liquid detergent and then launder. Pretreat heavy stains with a prewash stain remover. Allow to stand 5 to 10 minutes. Launder using an all-fabric bleach. If fabric has discolored, you might try treating fresh stains with ammonia and old stains with vinegar. Rust - Removing rust stains can be difficult. Rust stains cannot be removed in normal laundering. Your professional drycleaners has access to rust removing chemicals that are not available to the consumer. Small stains may be removed with a few drops of a retail rust remover. Follow package instructions. Do not let dry between applications. Rinse thoroughly and launder with a liquid laundry detergent and oxygen bleach, following directions. Do not use chlorine bleach, chlorine bleach will make the stains permanent. Salad Dressing (oil-based)- Most oil-based stains can be easily removed by your professional drycleaner. In an emergency, light stains can be pretreated with a spray stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a detergent booster. Place heavy stains face down on clean paper towels. Apply cleaning liquid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric. Before drying, inspect, and repeat the treatment and washing if the stain remains. Smoke, Soot - Your drycleaner has special odor-neutralizing chemicals to make your garments smell clean and fresh. At home, shake off excess soot outdoors. Launder in washing machine using a heavy-duty phosphate-based detergent or heavy-duty liquid as recommended by manufacturer, one cup of water conditioner, and 1/2 cup of all-fabric bleach. Use water setting appropriate for the fabric. Air dry. Inspect for smoke odor. Repeat as necessary. Three or four washes may be needed for cottons and cotton blends. Tar - Don't try to remove this stain at home. Drycleaners have solvents to dissolve tar that are not available for home use. Tea (with cream only) - Cream is an oily substance that is best removed by drycleaning. For a home remedy, flush stain immediately with cool water if possible; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Sponge stain with a drycleaning solvent. Air dry. Blot, don't rub, with detergent, then launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove. Pretreat or soak older stains with an enzyme product, then launder. Urine - If the care label in your garment says Dryclean-only, do not attempt a home remedy. On washable fabrics, soak stain in cool water. Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of powdered detergent and water. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric, using a bleach safe for that fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove. Wine - Your drycleaner uses special chemicals to remove the tannin found in red wine from your garments. At home, soak stain in cool water. Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of powdered detergent and water. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric, using a bleach safe for that fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove. Note: Older stains might respond to treatment with an enzyme product, then laundering. |
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